How a custom made suit is madeAt Jacob Brian Tailors it’s all about the experience of creating beautiful custom made suits and clothing which is as individual as you are.
Anatomy of a suit
See how a custom made suit is put together.
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custom made Suit structure
Good quality cloth has the ability to move, mould and drape to your physique.
The cloth that you choose can be likened to the icing on the cake or perhaps the paint on the outside, it’s the structure on the inside of your suit that plays an important role in how your jacket looks, feels and how it stands the test of time. Inside your jacket is a chest plate, made from horse hair, these can be created as a half or full canvas depending on the style and structure that we are aiming to create. Many custom made suit manufacturers and tailors will opt for the cost cutting option of a fixed canvas, this is not something that should be offered by a quality tailoring service. A fixed canvas is glued to the inside of the suit and the negative result of this is the suit has less freedom and movement and affects the overall comfort of your jacket. Good quality cloth has the ability to move, mould and drape to your physique as you wear it, increasing the perfection of the fit over time. A fixed canvas does not allow this movement and also the glue in which it is fixed in with, over time, can break down and loosen, spoiling the structure and the overall lasting quality of the jacket. Here at Jacob Brian all of our jackets are made with a hand sewn floating canvas. This method allows the jacket to adapt with the cloth as your wear it and offers immediate comfort and structure. As there is no glue involved it means it will not suffer any deterioration, resulting in a long lasting and quality product. Quality is what counts here at Jacob Brian, we want your clothing to last for years and we pride ourselves upon the high standards that we deliver.
How should your custom made suit be worn?
14 Cardinal Rules to wearing a custom made suit
There is a little phrase that is known within tailoring;
“A suit to a woman is like lingerie to a man!”
So it is super important to make sure that you are hitting all of the cardinal points when striding out in your suit!! We have them listed right here so that you can check that you are the best that you can be!
1. Never Button The Bottom Button Of A Suit Jacket
Just don’t do it! Ever! When you sit down undo it, as otherwise the jacket just won’t sit right and can ruin its shape. If you didn’t already know this rule then don’t worry, you are one of many, it is a common mistake for guys to make when wearing a suit. For the balance of the jacket, it is always tailored to be fastened at the mid point, so if you do fasten the bottom button it will throw everything all out of whack!!
2. Always Button The Top Button Of Your Shirt
You just can’t get away with leaving that top button open and sliding your tie up to disguise the fact that your shirt does not fit your neck!! A properly fitted shirt will be comfortable around your neck and fasten with ease, so keep it fastened! Unless of course it is time to throw some funky shapes on the dance floor with your tie around your head, then go on unfasten a button or two!!
3. Your Shirt Cuffs Shouldn’t Go Over Your Hands
If you can fit your hand through your cuff with the buttons or cuff links fastened then the cuff is too wide. The cuff should rest at the top of your hand, at the start of your cuff. It should also show 0.25 inch below your jacket sleeve for the true bespoke look!
4. Your Jacket Should Fit
This may sound very obvious but a lot of guys just don’t wear a jacket that truly fits! Starting at the shoulders, it should hug your physique but also flatter your shape. There should be no gap between your shirt and jacket collar. A well fitted jacket should make you look like your have been in the gym for 12 months, even if you haven’t! As said above, your sleeve length should be 0.25 inch shorter than your shirt, some may think that this seems too short, however it is the sign of a bespoke suit and stylish gentleman!! When opting for the skinny style always ensure that you can fasten your top button and can fit a hand between the breast and shirt.
5. Your Trousers Should Fit
No one likes half a mast trouser and if, when you are stood, your socks are showing then the trousers are too short. If they are bunched on top of your shoe they are too long! They should sit on top of the shoe with perfect drape and only when you sit should you show off any funky socks!!
6. Your Belt Should Match Your Shoes
When it comes to belts, shoes and a leather watch strap, they should all be matching in colour, if you are to perfect the look. Black shoes and a brown belt for example is a huge no no!! It really is these fine details that set your style above the rest.
7. Your Shoes Should Compliment The Colour Of Your Suit
There is some adventure to be had in this area, however there is a major rule to follow. Brown shoes with a black suit should never be seen and the same goes for a brown suit with black shoes!
8. Your Socks Should Always Cover Your Legs
Hairy legs can be a great look for some occasions, but it is not something that should be on display when you sit down in you suit. Always make sure your socks are long enough to cover your legs when you are seated. Whether you opt for colour matched socks or you like to go wild with your Star Wars collection, just make sure that they are long enough!
9. Your Tie Should End At Or Just Before Your Belt
Here is where you need to perfect you knot tying skills, and can be a case of trial and error. There should be no buttons visible below your tie and the tie should not pass the level of your belt! Good luck practising this one!!
10. Waistcoats Should Also Finish At Your Belt
A 3 piece suit can be what sets you aside in a room full of suits, so lets make sure that waistcoat is just right! It should finish at belt level to prevent you looking like you are wearing a big brother hand me down! This will also help to enhance your shape with the added aid of buckles to pinch in the waist! Back to the knot tying skills, make sure there is no tie showing below the level of your waistcoat! The back should reach your belt and be long enough so that your shirt doesn’t escape and bunch between your waistcoat and trousers.
11. Your Tie Knot Should Be A Reasonable Size
Uh oh! Another one about ties!! The Windsor knot is the ideal and should help you to result with a perfect sized knot, practise is what is required to ensure it doesn’t leave your tie too short. If you struggle with knots then try the Pratt, it’s a little easier to master!
12. Your Tie Should Be Darker Than Your Shirt
One could say that this is more of an advisory than a rule, but generally speaking, a tie that is darker than the colour of your suit will always look sharper. However it is a question of taste or maybe a colour theme that is being followed so you can be forgiven if this one isn’t adhered to!
13. Cut The Thread On The Vents And Pockets When You Buy It
Any good tailor will have already taken care of this for you however for the balance of the suit always make sure that the pocket threads are cut and open. We are not suggesting that you fill them and then spoil the balance of the jacket, but the release of the thread tension helps with the balance and drape.
14. If You’re Wearing Braces, Don’t Wear A Belt
Why would you need both? Braces and belts are designed for the same purpose and independently are capable of holding up to the same job! So don’t wear braces and a belt together, it’s just not necessary!
Worried about ticking every box? Don’t worry, here at Jacob Brian our expertise and experience ensures that every suit ticks all the check boxes and during your fitting we will give you any style tips for how best to wear your new custom suit!
How a custom made suit feels
In one word, incomparable!
When a garment has been made to your exacting measurements it is designed to sculpt to your body for a superb fit. This will be apparent from the first try on and in some cases the jacket may feel tighter than what you are used to, especially if you wear an ill fitting jacket or have never had custom clothing. There is no comparison between what we do and what you can buy off the peg, or even with another tailor. Our suits are designed to be fitted and to enhance and flatter your physique, with this you must expect an element of tightness in the arm and in the chest. Your clothier will explain how a custom garment should look and feel but will also find out if you would prefer more room in the jacket, for example a wider arm hole. This conversation is very important so that we can manage your expectations and try get the perfect fit first time! Sometimes we advise that you take the jacket and wear it for several weeks to allow the hand sewn chest piece to relax and sculpt and also for the cloth to drop and drape to your shape. Whatever the outcome we always make sure that the customer is completely satisfied and will make adjustments or remake until we get that level.
how much does it cost?
Suits from £799
The price of a custom styled made to measure garment depends upon the fabric that you choose and for a clear quote you would need to book an appointment with a clothier. As a guideline, we offer suits from £799 and the prices go up from there and bespoke shirts from £150. Each item we create is individual and bespoke to each client, which is why we would need a consultation to be able to give you a clear quote for what you are looking to create.
What Will Happen
At your first consultation your clothier will spend some time finding out about you, colouring and the image you want to create, building ideas for style and design. You will discuss what your new clothing is for, what you like and don’t like, what colours you tend to wear and if we are looking to create a subtle or flamboyant style. Your suit should be perfect for the occasion that you require it for, create an image that fits your personality and of course fit your physique exquisitely. We can do this at our showroom over a drink from our complimentary bar in Huddersfield or at a convenient place such as your work or home.
Choose your cloth
The next stage is to choose your cloth. At this point your clothier will have gained a good idea of what selection of cloth would be appropriate to your needs in terms of weight and colour. Once you have chosen your cloth we then look to the lining, which is where we can begin to get really creative with colours and patterns. We then move to the styling of the suit where your clothier will take you through a step by step process to create the suit, choosing from options such as single or double breasted, lapel shapes, buttons, thread colours and personalized embroidery. You can even have your own signature embroidered on the inside of your garment.
The final stage of the process is postural photos so that we can take into account the way in which you stand, along with any unevenness in the shoulders or curves in the spine, ensuring an absolute perfect fit. Our measuring process is in depth and efficient to keep return visits for fittings to a minimum, as we know that time is precious. At this point we process your order. The lead time is 6 weeks so you would now have a little wait to see the exciting results of what you and your clothier have created.
When your order arrives your clothier will arrange a fitting, at a time and place convenient to you. Due to our efficient measuring process 90% of orders fit perfectly at the very first try on and are ready to drive straight away. There may be some final tweaks to get the perfection that we always aim for, in which case these would be pinned or chalked with the finished product ready just a few days later. At the 6 weeks point, and first fitting you would be required to settle any outstanding balance.
Exemplary high service and product standards
Should you take away your order and decide that a tweak is required you are more than welcome to bring it back and we will have this done for you. We want all of clients to be completely happy throughout the entire process and we know that our exemplary high service and product standards that we will have you returning to us for more custom styled clothing. As you measurements are stored in our system the future of your ordering is a fast and efficient process, it can even be done over the telephone and we can post your order to you. Should you feel that your measurements have changed we are more than happy to re measure an update the information, just book an appointment with your clothier.
Improve your existing garments
We do offer an alteration service for items of clothing that you may have purchased elsewhere. We cannot guarantee what can be done to the garment until we see it, this is because it hasn’t been made by us. Book an appointment to find what we can do to improve your garment and find out the costs involved.
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